By Diana Drakulich
Years ago, I lived in Belize when it was still British Honduras, or `BH’ as the locals called it. `My’ village, Placencia, was an isolated fishing village numbering some 500 souls. This included a great many children who were everywhere and always on the move.
I met my good friend Rita one day on the `mail boat’, (a huge dugout powered by an outboard), while returning to Placencia from Mango Creek town. At first sight, sitting in the stern of the dory, Rita appeared very small, her face almost childlike. She sat alone, one suitcase balanced at her feet.
“Are you traveling alone without your parents?” I asked her.
Gathering herself, Rita rose in the rocking boat to her full stature of 5’2” and informed me in no uncertain terms:
“My name is Rita Cabral. I am 23 years old and I am coming back to Placencia from the States”.
Okay whatever you say…
I liked Rita’s style and we soon became friends. Rita was the eldest of the 14 Cabral children. At 23, Rita was divorced and returning to live with her family who were already caring for her 2 children along with their own. Including Rita, that made 16 children at the Cabral house on its high mahogany posts facing the sea.
Rita’s mother, `Coonchie’ ran the house like a top sergeant. With 16 children in the house, she had to. After meals at the long table, Coonchie would bark an order and the older girls would move into action with brooms and mops, cleaning up any spilled food around the table.
Like most Placencians of that day, the Cabral’s made their living from the sea. One day Rita invited me to take a fishing trip to the cays with them. For five days Rita, her father George, her two brothers, Egbert and Georgie Jr., her cousin `Tinnen’ Lopez and I sailed the cays, diving for conch and lobster and line fishing.
All that we caught was gutted and put in a large ice chest in the hold of their 24 foot sailboat. At night we camped on one of the many cays scattered inside the nearly 200 mile long main barrier reef. Within the barrier reef was a maze of smaller reefs – ideal for fishing and diving.
We sailed northwest toward Water Cay. From there the boat would turn back south toward Placencia. Every day the Cabral sailboat would drop off the two paddling `dories’. These dories were small dugouts towed behind the sailboat when not in use. The dories had no motor or sail, only paddles for power.
On this day, Rita’s brothers took one dory while Tinnen and I took the second. Rita and her father manned the sailboat, line fishing as they moved languidly downwind toward our appointed rendezvous just off of Water Cay, about ten miles from our present location.
Tinnen and Rita’s brothers were built like Olympic swimmers. I soon found out why.
Commercial diving was the most exhausting work I had ever done and I had the easy part. All I had to do was jump out and hold the dory rope to keep the boat from drifting away while Tinnen dove for `bugs’, (lobster) hiding in the large coral heads.
Meanwhile I dove for conch grazing on the seagrass, while keeping one hand gripped on the long dory rope. When we had caught all that was readily available in one area, we heaved our bodies over the high wooden sides of the dory (try pulling yourself into a canoe from deep water without flipping it over) and paddle on to the next likely coral formation. This all had to be done at speed. We had 10 miles to cover.
Dive, powerful kicks down, back arched, kick up, break through to the surface – ahhhhh…feels so good to breathe. Breathe deep, hold your breath, dive again, kick up, breathe deep.
Then, finned feet kicking to get some height above water, you heave your tired body back over into the dory, trying not to turn it over with all the catch in the process.
Drive your paddle deep under the blazing, piercing sun to the next coral head. Tinnen worked with single minded intensity.
Once, when a lobster eluded him in the coral, Tinnen dove repeatedly to hook it. I bobbed close by in the water, watching. As he came up again for air, very close to me, Tinnen gazed into my eyes, white teeth glinting, tightly curled black hair streaked with blonde from the constant sun and salt.
“If I no de catch dis bug, I wan sen you down after him an dat wan be a him dat. Eh Diana”? Said in his deep, melodious Creole.
We gazed into each others’ eyes, breathing deep. The sea playing with us, rocking us at her breast. And then I was looking down a misty tunnel filled with light. At the end of that tunnel were Tinnen’s clear, steady eyes. Eyes that held a message: I love you.
We worked until late afternoon and the center of the dory was heaped with lobster and conch. Then, as the sun was just starting to kiss the western horizon with golden pink, we paddled hard to reach the sailboat before dark.
My first view of Water Cay that evening was framed by lush green palms, which seemed to drench the island in a golden green light, as if the cay itself beckoned.
The cay watchmen, Old John Leslie, his tall lean frame unbowed, stood on the beach waiting for our boat to set anchor. John was alone on the cay and glad for company.
Stepping ashore, I was immediately aware of a deep and profound change in myself. All that swimming, using my back to dive and especially the deep breathing was like the greatest mental therapy that no psychiatrist, no antidepressant, no mood elevating or stabilizing drug could ever provide.
The self consciousness that I often felt in company had disappeared. I was relaxed and at ease in my own body and with everyone around me.
We sat around the campfire that night eating rice cooked in cocoanut cream with broiled grouper steaks seasoned with lime and salt. A welcome sea breeze came up, keeping the voracious sand flies at bay and waving the palms overhead.
One minute I remember being so relaxed, sitting on the beach, the next instant I was standing up, jolted by a spear of pure, unadulterated fear.
Voices.
“Did you hear that?! I heard voices! Is someone out there”? I asked, eyes searching the darkness. No one else appeared too concerned.
“Only de wind in de palms”. Came the answer.
I sat down again, only to leap up a few moments later –
“There they are again! Can you hear them? Someone is talking out there!”
It sounded like a man and a woman, talking, whispering, laughing, scolding, teasing.
Am I the only one who hears them?
Eyes scanning the gloom I listened intently. The voices were distinct, yet I could not quite make out what they were saying. Old John nodded at my confusion.
“Dey’s de Ghosts of Watah Cay you hear gal. Don’t you know dey was pirates on dis cay? On de other side of dis barrier reef was de Spanish Main. Dis meh de be de only cay aroun wit fresh watah. De English buccaneers dey use dis cay to store up dey treasure.”
“For hundreds of years de pirates lived out here on de cays wit dey wives and dey slaves and dey piknee (children).” John continued. “De buccaneers dey founded `BH’ an we Creole, we be descended from dem.”
“I hear strange tings too, some nights, voices an such like. Specially when I’m all alone wit de wind blowin on a full moon night.” John gestured at the night sky brilliant with stars.
A full moon. Like tonight.
Old John Leslie gazed around the ring of rapt, glowing faces in the firelight. Storytelling was the main source of entertainment in old BH. They had no TV, video games, cell phones or personal computers, yet.
Old John rose to the occasion:
“One round full moon night, I may de be out fishin near de Deep in my dory when from out de darkness, I see a light a comin straight at me. Dis light de get closer an closer.”
“Den I see it meh de be one lantern a swingin from de prow of a boat. Look like a big boat too.” Old John’s eyes widened in the fire light.
“De lantern was swingin all crazy like, comin fast, straight at me. I de paddle for dear life to get out de way and den – Dere she blows! Steamin right by under full sail, a bloody Spanish galleon! A ghost ship manned by de ghosts of dead men!” Old John’s voice went deep and eerie.
“An dat very night I meh de have one terrible dream. I meh de dream dis drowned man come to me. A white man. E white til e belly blue. All drippin wet wit black holes for eyes. He meh de be dressed in old time clothes wit big silver buckles on e shoes, a three corner hat, a long black mustache an a long black beard. E look like ol’ Black Beard hisself!”
“And dis pirate e say to me – John Leslie, e say, My men done me wrong. My men done murdered me for my treasure. But I fooled em! I de bury my treasure over dere on Macobi Point, before dey got to me. My treasure meh de still be dere John. Enough gold to last you all your days. Find my treasure John, it’s still dere, on Macobi Point!”
Old John gestured toward a long silver crescent of beach at the north end of the island, outlined by a narrow line of cocoanut palms wavering in the moonlight.
“Ever since den I de dig for treasure on dis cay but I got no luck. No, I never found de treasure, not in all dese years. But somewhere dat gold is still dere, buried under de sand. Dos ghost voices de speak to you, gal.” He said to me. “Dey’s callin you.”
“Go – look for dat treasure. You might be de lucky one to find it. You can have ALL de treasure. BUT -” Old John held up his hand –
“I have one rule – Nobody ken tek anyting from offn dis cay!”
I laughed along with everyone else. It was that kind of night. A night for good company, a night for laughter. Once in a while in life you meet one of those droll people – all they have to do is open their mouths and within a few words, you can already feel the smile, the laughter welling up from deep inside.
Old John went on to tell us about how a powerful hurricane suddenly hit the island and blew his house clear up into the sky where it whirled around and disappeared! Old John stood up in front of the fire and whiled his hand around toward the cosmos. And we could almost see that house disappearing into the sky.
Fortunately, as John felt his house breaking up, he ran outside and took cover in a flimsy driftwood outhouse with a palm frond roof.
He slammed the outhouse door shut. He peered through a crack to see his house, built of solid mahogany from the mainland, disintegrate and blow away. Poor Old John was left with nothing but a stinken outhouse to shelter in.
At some point, my eyes met Tinnen’s in silent invitation and we both rose. Swaying together as naturally as the palms, we strolled along the lapping shore toward Macobi Point.
Upon reaching it, I gazed across the moonlit sea to the horizon. I had never imagined the stars could be so close, so brilliant, so many.
“De moon de come full soon, den de weather de change”. Tinnen’s brown eyes were luminous.
“How will it change?”
He shrugged. “Depends. It meh de be calm now, so it de get rough when de moon comes full. Rain, wind. De weather changes wit de moon.”
Standing so close in the darkness, Tinnen’s open shirt flaps in the breeze, revealing shimmering glimpses of his powerful chest. His very presence vibrates with some ineffable masculine energy.
Long muscular legs stand evenly on large, wide, flat feet. Since childhood, Tinnen has been running and swimming barefoot. His balance and sense of connection with his world, it shows. He seems completely at ease with himself, with the night and with me.
“Tinnen, no wonder you swim so fast, with those big feet, you don’t even need flippers”. I tease.
His eyes glint at my audacity and I sense his smile. Muscular brown arms flow around my waist. He whispers in my ear:
“Deeyana, you know what Macobi means”?
“What”?
“Macobi it means – sadness – for your lost love”.
I feel Tinnen’s warm, full, salty lips press against mine and we are drawn upwards by the magnetic shimmering moon, along with the rushing sea breeze, the whispering palms and all the Voices of Ages Past who encountered destiny here on Macobi Point.
